First oil change

Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Maintenance' started by WRC Fan, Sep 6, 2013.

  1. Mayhem

    Mayhem Active Member

    Ended up doing my first oil change early.
    1330 KM (roughly 827 miles).

    Stuck with the Motorcraft FL 910 S and 5w20 for now.
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  3. MOFiST

    MOFiST Member

    I've changed my oil at about 200kms. I ordered in some Motorcraft FL-910s filters from US as I was a little paranoid about warranty. I went with a local Aussie oil: Nulon 5W20 fully synthetic.

    Also I was reading somewhere about putting magnets on the filter to catch ferrous particles. Anyone got a take on whether this practice is worth while?
  4. wash

    wash Active Member

    It can't hurt but what is going to wear that is steel/iron?

    I can only think of camshafts, followers, valve stems and the oil pump.

    Everything else is aluminum or protected by non-ferrous bearings.

    The stuff I did mention wears very little as long as they have oil.

    Oh, piston rings, but they hardly wear too.

    If we had an iron block, flat tappet cam and timing chain rather than belt, it would make more sense but its still a tough sell to me.
  5. F1ST

    F1ST Member

    Did mine at 1000. Went with the Motorcraft semi synthetic till I go full synth at 5k.
    Didn't need a lift or jack, was easy enough on the ground.

    Used the tools shown below. 13mm gear wrench and an oil filter wrench I've had for years. It got the super tight factory filter off no problem.


    Oil filter wrench on the filter.



    When putting the new filter in I found that getting it up close and to the threads while looking was easy enough but getting it to thread while laying on the ground was difficult. I couldn't push the filter into the threads and turn at the same time. I reversed my grip kind of like shown below. I wasn't able to see what I was doing but it made it very easy to catch the threads and fully tighten the filter when holding it this way.


    Thanks for the tip earlier in this thread to rotate the hose clamp. It was the first thing I did and I'm sure it saved me some busted knuckles. I used a small pair of channel locks to squeeze and rotate it around.
  6. LuvfiestaST

    LuvfiestaST Active Member

    You must be small to get underneath. I brought the oil and filter but couldn't get underneath. I tried but had to bring it in to get the oil changed.
  7. F1ST

    F1ST Member

    Not too small, but my driveway has a bit of and incline and a flat. If I park just right the nose of the car is just high enough by maybe 1-2 inches more and I can get the job done without lifting.

    I think if you were to drive the front wheels up onto some 2x6 boards you'd be able to do the same thing. It would also tilt the drain plug back a little.
  8. F1ST

    F1ST Member

    Did you leave off a zero? Just curious if you did it at 200km (124 miles)
  9. LuvfiestaST

    LuvfiestaST Active Member

    I went with full syn at 7000 kms
  10. MOFiST

    MOFiST Member

    I did this on advice from another forum. The theory is get the factory fill out quickly as there will be fine casting material floating around. I'm not sure but since it's my 1st new car in a while and I had the time so I changed it for piece of mind.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. RavynX

    RavynX Member

    That sucks on the busted knuckle, thank you for the tip and pics. I just went to Wally World and got a Motorcraft filter ($4) and 5qts of Mobil 1 5w-20 ($25). Mileage is almost at 700 now, dealer changed it at 210 when I picked up the car.
  12. wash

    wash Active Member

    I'm getting ready to do my third oil change before I drive down to Willow Springs.

    I'll cut the filter and try to photograph the element and any debris I find (hopefully none).

    I'll do the intercooler hose tightening and maybe replace the necked down tube that runs under the passenger side of the engine.
  13. RavynX

    RavynX Member

    This is my first new-car so I'm definitely putting research into it but Mobil 1's site has a FAQ section addressing the concern of synthetic oils and motor break-ins...

    MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic like Mobil 1™ oil.
    REALITY: You can start using Mobil 1 synthetic oil in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 synthetic is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

    • Acura RDX
    • Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, DBS, DBS Volante, Virage, Virage Volante, Rapide
    • Bentley Azure, Brooklands, Continental Flying Spur, Continental GT, Continental GTC, Mulsanne
    • Chevrolet Corvette Z06, ZR1 and Grand Sport Coupe
    • Chevrolet CR8 and COPO Camaro
    • Citröen DS3
    • Holden HSV
    • Lexus LFA
    • McLaren MP4-12C
    • Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
    • Nissan GT-R
    • All Porsche Vehicles
    • Peugeot RCZ
    • Vauxhall VXR8
    • Viper Motorcycles

    One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
  14. MonsterST

    MonsterST Member

    I second that! Had a filter stuck on once... brutal to get off (had it done at a dealership, probably some lackey hired with no training). Had to use a large screw driver and drive it threw the filter to twist it off. Since then I only use K&N on my cars and bikes. Have never had a problem getting a filter off since then, plus you can torque it to spec too.
  15. wash

    wash Active Member

    Hmm, a Mobil FAQ that says you can use Mobil oil?

    You won't see that every day.
  16. chr0n0phage

    chr0n0phage New Member

    I believe the point he's making is that, Acura, Aston martin, Bentley, Chevrolet, Citroen, Holden, Lexus, McLaren, Mercedes-Benz, Nissan, Porsche, Peugeot, and Vauxhall all have car's that have Mobil 1 in them from the factory.

    Makes the whole "conventional for break-in" argument moot.
    RavynX likes this.
  17. mrtn

    mrtn Active Member

    Our cars have semi synthetic from factory... Don't know if that makes a difference to anyone. But it's not just conventional oil either.
  18. RavynX

    RavynX Member

  19. wash

    wash Active Member

    So some of their cars use Mobile 1 for break in, why not all?

    Why do a few exceptions make a rule?

    How many of those cars use Mobile 1 so that the manufacturer gets a price break on all Mobile oil, synthetic and conventional?

    Mobile 1 isn't a bad product but in general you should decide on research or personal experience more than marketing.
  20. RavynX

    RavynX Member

    Times change, products change, methods change all from research and improvements. Different companies have different specifications, procedures, budgets, etc for choosing one thing over another which is why not everyone has Mobil 1, or Amsoil, or Pennzoil, or Royal Purple, etc. I do see how some manufacturers may use a certain product b/c of an agreement, or price break, or contract so that's always good to question but the thing to take away from this is not in regards to using Mobil 1 but determining whether the old adage of "conventional only for break in until xxxx miles" still holds water. The search continues...
  21. STDaddy

    STDaddy New Member

    Quick question about the first change; did you change the drain plug washer / gasket? If so, what did you use? Anyone go to a magnetic plug?

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