First oil change

Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Maintenance' started by WRC Fan, Sep 6, 2013.

  1. STDaddy

    STDaddy New Member

    Great tip! Thanks.
     
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  3. Mikeygti

    Mikeygti Active Member

    I've changed all my vehicle's oil as per manufacuter's spec.They have all lived long and prospered :)
     
  4. DaveSave

    DaveSave New Member

     
  5. DaveSave

    DaveSave New Member

    From a friend who is a Porsche Master Tech and also builds race engines with regards to early oil changes-
    "you really can't go too wrong following the mfg'r guidelines. I'd go with your gut.
    Filter will catch anything bad, and the factory fill oil is usually superior for break in. Seating rings, etc."

    '14 ST w/ 1500 mi (original, clean looking oil)
     
  6. ST-in-Mich

    ST-in-Mich Member

    Im coming up on 750ish miles and am going to do a Mobile1/PL20195 either this weekend or the next.
     
  7. wash

    wash Active Member

    I just did my third oil change, at 11,600.

    Still using the PL20195 filter.

    Afterward I was looking at the internet and read that the Fiesta ST filter is not actually the FL-910s but is the FL-2057.

    I'm still fairly confident that everything in the PL20195 is equal to or better than OEM but I can't find any info on the FL-2057.

    Two things I know is that the FL-2057 is roughly the same size as the FL-910s so the filter element can not be as big as the PL20195 and the threads must be identical because I've never had more trouble with the oil filter threads than when I removed the first filter.

    Any way, more research is warranted but I think the 2.0 EcoBoost used the FL-910s so I'm still feeling good about using the PL20195 until I can figure out what's in the FL-2057.
     
  8. ST-in-Mich

    ST-in-Mich Member


    I went to http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2014&m=Ford&mo=Fiesta#Search and went under filters. and near the bottom is this:

    upload_2014-3-7_9-48-57.png

    with the 1.0L Ecoboost using a FL-2050

    and the 1.6L TiVCT using the FL-910S
     
  9. wash

    wash Active Member

    Yes, but what is the difference?
     
  10. ST-in-Mich

    ST-in-Mich Member

    Still trying to find that out. They have 0 information at all about the 2050 or the 2057. And all it says about the 910S is the dimensions/weight.
     
  11. wash

    wash Active Member

    Yeah, the 910s has been around long enough that people have cut them open to see the construction and there are some filtration specs too.

    My search for FL-2057 returned a few Fiesta web sites, nothing from Ford, then various unrelated results.
     
  12. moff3tt

    moff3tt Active Member

    I did some research and the full synthetic Rotella is 5w-40 which sounds awesome for South Texas where I will be running my car hard in 100*F weather in a few short months.

    [edit] Turns out Rotella T6 full syn is only for API SM not API SN (while I don't doubt that it is good enough since you can use Rotella T for motorcycle wet clutches haha) it still doesn't technically meet the requirements and will then not meet warranty requirements :( I'm sure Rotella is getting things tested though and will eventually meet the requirements.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2014
  13. BlackBird

    BlackBird Active Member Staff Member

    I'll probably do the same as with my last car--1500mi and then 7500 intervals with a top shelf full synthetic and Bosch filters. I used to like Castrol Edge FST, and was using AMSOIL Signature Synthetic 0W-20, but I think I might go to Penzoil Ultra / Platinum (whatever they're calling it after their rebranding efforts). It's a high quality synthetic with mostly GTL stock meeting SN formulation and it's a good deal cheaper than the AMSOIL I've used, and as far as UOAs show, not any worse.

    It also seems to be the reigning champ at BITOG for the moment, and that's as decent a barometer as any as to who's on top of the synthetic game.
     
  14. wash

    wash Active Member

    From what I can tell, the SN spec does not have anything to do with making oil perform better, it just limits additives so that if you are burning oil it won't foul the catalytic converter or oxygen sensors.

    But one of the things we are trying to avoid by using premium oils is burning oil...

    That seems to be backed up on BITOG because the better SM oil UOAs seem to beat any SN that is tested.
     
    BlackBird likes this.
  15. BlackBird

    BlackBird Active Member Staff Member

    Not everyone's gotten on board with SN either yet, I don't think. There are some stragglers (someone mentioned Shell Rotella, for instance). It'll come and then we'll see some really competitive results. If anyone wants something long-wearing, the go-to is probably still M1EP.
     
  16. wash

    wash Active Member

    If the SN spec was better or even equal, we would already have competitive results and some of the good SM oils would have met the spec before it was introduced. Neither of those have happened.
     
    BlackBird likes this.
  17. BlackBird

    BlackBird Active Member Staff Member

    I'm debating what to do for my first change. Either PU, or AMSOIL SSO. I still have my membership-thingy for a few months with AMSOIL so I can get a slight discount, but I'm not so sure it's worth it (and while I'm sure it's fine, SSO doesn't meet Ford's warranty-requirement spec). I can't find PU locally anymore (and no one seems to have PUP yet in either single quarts or the 5-qt jug) so I might just order PU off Amazon; they have a good deal going for 6 qts at $45 with free shipping. I can't argue with that.
     
  18. Izzy

    Izzy Member

    I've used multiple full synthetic oils, but after two failures (aspirated & turbo) with Mobil 1 I changed to Amsoil. Without a doubt the best oil I've ever used. As long as they keep their current standards I'll be purchasing their oil & filters. If you have not tried it you owe it to yourself.
     
  19. MrEss

    MrEss Member

    I would not describe what I found in my 350 mile from new drain oil as evidence of super clean assembly processes. Lots of fine particles. More than twenty large metal chips and a plethora of what looks like Teflon pipe tape fragments. I would not have run this stuff through the engine for any longer time. My 11 fiesta had some particles and bits when I first drained it. But not to this degree. I would recommend everyone at least drain into a clean pan and then install a new filter then pour the original oil through a paint strainer before putting it back into the engine and topping off with new! You might be shocked at how much crap is in the oil!
     
  20. koozy

    koozy Active Member

    here's some facts for my first oil change at 5,000 miles.

    Factory filled oil with 5,000 miles analysis results.

    [​IMG]

    I also cut the factory installed filter open. Note that that the OE filter is shorter than the FL-910S, the part number on it is 1714387BM5G6714AA. The condition was pretty good, the filter media does not appear to be full of particles to the naked eye. There were some larger contaminants outside in the residual oil inside the can, but nothing that made it back into the motor as the filter was doing it's job preventing that.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  21. MrEss

    MrEss Member

    One difference in them over the FL 910S is the S suffix. It means the filter has an internal anti drain back valve. This feature prevents that death rattle dry start that occurs when the oil pump has to refill the filter before oil flows to bearings or lifters. The first Motorcraft filter with this feature was the now obsolete FL 2005 that was first available in 1997. It is a good feature to have in any filter. I am not aware of any current Ford product that does not specify an anti drain back type of oil filter.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2015

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