FRPP Stuff

Discussion in 'Tasca Auto Group' started by McRib 1s Back, Sep 16, 2014.

  1. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    I just bought the AC delete kit, a couple of tow rings (though not the Fiesta ones, rather the Mustang "weld-on" variety), and the part I'm most excited about...

    The racing ABS module! This little module turns off all stability and TVC (and maybe uses a different ABS program?):

    Once I get this installed, I'll report back. Thanks, Steve!
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  3. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    Am interested to see if it turns off Torque Vectoring as this has been out for a while (years) for the previous Fiesta's that did not have the off button we enjoy. Did you ask anyone at Ford directly if it works with our cars and does indeed turn off TV ? in for info.. Hoping for the best
  4. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    Steve said it was the right part! ;)

    Actually, I'm willing to just try. The module is an easy swap now that my car is gutted. The description certainly uses the right words. Think of it this way -- if it just replaces the module with "ABS-only function" then we win (even if not a fancy racing ABS program). To your point, it would be like installing a previous generation ABS system. :)

    If this doesn't work, I'm just going to neuter the system in a more brute force way (remove the yaw sensors).

    I'm also excited about the AC delete kit. Think of all the weight and parasitic power loss I'm reducing! ;)
  5. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    Yup for a track car you really have no need for the AC I would remove it if not for the drying effect it has on the wet damp days .. You should lose what about 30 -50 lbs ? all on the nose too thats just gravey.. lets hope it all works easy peasy
  6. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    I'd be thrilled to get a savings in that ballpark! Having recently gutted my car, I'm impressed with how light many of the components are.

    Dehumidification is my favorite use of AC! I'll miss it, I'm sure. Now it will be like my very first Ford. Somehow I managed to live without AC then.

    Hey, it's a genuine Ford kit -- how hard can it be?! :)
    RodMoe likes this.
  7. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    Agreed and looking forward to the details
  8. ryst

    ryst Active Member

    From what I can tell, this exists for the base fiesta because traction and stability control are not defetable. On our ST, traction and stability are able to be COMPLETELY turned off (Hold ESC button for 5 seconds).

    Unless this changes the ABS or TVC program, it probably won't do anything different than holding down the ESC button. BUT, I'm still interested to see if it works or actually does anything.

    EDIT: I missed the part in the first post where you said it disables TVC... It's totally worth it for that, especially if you have an LSD
  9. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    Yep, this along with the Quaife ATB is the plan. I've heard that other FiST drivers report good results with TVC and the Quaife (where I hear the FoST community is universally not getting them to play nicely).

    Based on my personal experiences, I think that more aggressive suspension settings upset TVC (almost like it can't keep up and does last-second jabs instead of something more predictable). It wasn't until I went with coilovers *and* more negative camber that this started happening (-4 up front now).

    I'm optimistic, but we'll find out either way pretty soon. ;)
  10. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    ...also not having to toggle off systems in a track car is a big deal for me. I'm planning on removing my NAV/screen and it would be a bit unnerving to not know whether this was off/on. I already have too much else going on when I remember to check this before leaving the pits!
    ryst likes this.
  11. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I got a bit carried away here, perhaps you have seen my other threads, since building a track car I wanted to pass on a few things just in case.

    I have completely deleted ABS from two modern cars due to just not able to work properly with race tires and went off course in one when suddenly no brakes in some weird 4 wheel ABS hiccup where it was pulsing but not doing anything. Both were Toyota brand cars.

    It is nice to have ABS for lifting a rear wheel, helps keep from flat spotting them so I had to buy more tires without it even with the brake bias tuned as much as I could by reducing rear pressure (Wilwood "bias" valve) I want the competition ABS in the 95M3 I was building last year but it was $$$$$$$


    I have also removed A/C and the savings are not as good as hoped, more like 20 lbs if I recall but that still matters! And more air directly to the radiator:)

    You can also sand off some of the rear of the grill to allow more air flow.

    Until a good radiator, or DIY one to fit, I decided to take the load off the the stock one by disconnecting the oil to water cooler and installing a Mocal plate and good size Setrab cooler. I also heat wrapped the lines and the intake tube they are near.

    I have not figured out how to remove the oil to water element, seems a qtr turn install, so my oil filter is going to be a tight removal and I want a bigger filter, a very low cost way to ail capacity and more oil!


    Very interested in the TVC issue as I was hoping it could be tuned at some point to help keep from unlocking the Quaife when a front wheel is lifted when I hit some of the curbs I love to drive over so much on track.

    With my BBK and fog light mounted inlets for brake ducts I can suffer a little heat from the TVC, part of why I am using GT rotors and ducts.

    If interested in brake ducts you can get cheap, I can get the part number for you, ports for subwoofers that fit perfectly in the openings when you just take out the fogs, then fit perfectly into the duct hose (some good hose for a good price is the lined Allstar performance, I have used it on a few track cars.


    If in a class where you can do such things, or no class, just building your way for fun, I found the suspension bushings plenty stiff but they do add resistance when they flex, other than that I would not change them. The Powerflex, which I ordering in race grade but ended up mostly with the softer ones since race grade was not available, it was an order mix up, allow full movement without the added resistance of the stock bushings. If you get them make sure they send the correct rear steel inserts, mine did not fit, had to send the info to PF and they made me a correct set and mailed them from the UK.


    If you decide to change the rear camber and toe I have figured out how to do it with far less effort than I have into mine as had to tweak it 3 times to get it right(first tweak was caused by my digital caster camber gauge not zeroing properly) now I could do the whole mod in a few hours, I will share that with you as well. I will update my thread on it later.

    I was going to have shims made but when I found the settings side to side were out of whack, or so I thought, no way to tell now due to the gauge not working right, I decided working out the math, having them machined, might not be correct, new ones just cut and change the angle of the knuckle flanges and now I have a way that should be right or very close the first time, tack weld test before final welding...


    Low cost battery that is doing well so far but I have not driven much with it but started the car numerous times, battery mart, big crank, great price and specs.

    Rear mount cable was not to heavy, less than expected, I have not designed the mount for the battery yet but will very soon.


    Window washer bottle and pump can be easily replaced with a small unit in the rear, just run the rear hose to the front wipers and delete the rear if you wish or it can be maintained with a bit of effort, not that much.

    Taking out the washer bottle makes brake duct hose routing far easier.

    This also allows room for a brake duct hose under the headlight to feed air from the grill to the air box, I used a NACA duct trimmed to fit in the grill and the same subwoofer vent part as the brake ducts at the air box.


    Intake, I am using a 5 liter mini keg for a sealed unit, 180 degree elbow right to the turbo, 45 degree to the keg, AEM dry filter than fits perfectly in the end of the keg, then the air from the grill into the other end. A very low cost and not difficult project with the end result of lots of fresh air in a sealed system.


    Transaxle mount has a huge amount of movement in it, shim it with some qtr and 1/8" stock, or make a light weight cover like I did, cheap effective mod.


    Move the ECU further from the engine, a simple bracket will do.


    Remove the brackets the engine is lowered into the chassis with, keep for later use if ever needed.


    If you wish, removed the flaps and then swiss cheese the fan shroud.

    You can also do that to the lower radiator support, vertical support in front of the radiator and the cross beam the crash sensors are mounted to, all to allow better flow, more cooling. Remove part of the foam gasket under the radiator to allow more air out after the swiss cheese job on the support.

    I ended up making a new crash beam from 1/2" tubing as needed to move it up and make it also the mount for the oil cooler.


    I removed all the little things I could, bracket the neg lead was tied to, studs, sections of some of the tubing as I could, hood liner not needed(I am keeping mine as more a dual purpose car)

    I wanted to take all the weight I could off the front since taking so much from the rear as rear seat deleted, I will have an Alumalite floor, sub, amp, processor in a quick release spare tire tub enclosure, carry some tools, tire repair kit, emergency road side stuff, and still be considerably lighter weight than stock with about the same front to rear bias, which I wish I could make better.

    I have saved around 90 lbs just in wheels, tires, brakes, coilovers.....I did not weight the rear brake backing plates but they are gone as well as some stout tab on the rear axle that must of been for manf or to keep the wheels from hitting the wells in a complete suspension colapse, which I do not see happening.

    4x100 bolt pattern change opens up a big list of wheel options, my 15x9, roll formed 13 lb, $126 wheels being one, the 15x8 is 12lbs, not sure if would fit the BBK but I might switch to some for street wheels. There are lighter wheels yet, the new 949 Racing in 15.9 is around 12 lbs, $189 or so, the 15x8 is less weight and around $149, Once I sell my house I might switch from the Konig to the 949 as always loved those wheels but the new version is even better:)

    If running stock brakes for now I have some 293 mile rotors drilled for 4x100 already then just need to get the hubs done.


    Better shifter reach, first phase was a bit time consuming, I separated and moved the top half of the shifter base up 1.25", second phase was to move using some coupling nuts, it was a bit tough to get to with the console in place but not to bad with the side trim removed. Now I realize I could of use two sets of nuts and some threaded shaft or longer bolts and one set and some get the total height change I have or around 2.75". The base is still very solid but now the shifter is much easier to grab.

    I make my own SS kit which is a serious effort but I wanted to and to make it shorter as will have a taller shift knob that will take out some of the SS results.

    6 washers, 3 tack welded on, 3 on top, shifter cable bushings removed, less than $1


    I will have some sort of splitter and maybe undertray, if so it will be ducted towards the wheel wells.

    On the rear you can sand out the backing for the diffuser grill to let air out from under the car, I plan to.


    On 205/45/17 Mich PS3 street tires I have the front down to about even with the fender tops and still have proper geometry and plenty of ground clearance. I will check it all again as I put a few miles on and things settle.

    Front camber can be increased by slotting the strut top holes, I had to drill new ones as could not adjust down below as my 9" wide wheels are very close to the struts.


    I am looking at the OMP pedals a member used, and a bracket if needed to make them the best fit for heel and toe use.


    That is about all I can recall right now, time to get in the shop, back to the mods and once the ABS is sorted out today start driving!
    quiznos likes this.
  12. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the thoughtful reply! I'm going to take this in sections...

    First, just so we're on the same page about ABS, I'd never disable it. Even in my references to "brute force...disabling TVC", I was looking at hobbling/removing our yaw sensors. Covered in other threads, modern ABS just rocks -- even on a track, in dry/perfect conditions. On a related note, motorcycles have only recently caught up (and now both ABS and race stability programs are getting popular on race oriented street bikes!).

    Also, were you generalizing about past AC removal, or did you do this on your FiST? I could see "only 20 pounds" being about right here. Your car has an impressive list of mods, but it struck me as a very cool street car. I am leaving no concessions for comfort and my car is a dedicated track car without the need to be street legal in any way.

    I'm going to spend some time removing more stuff on the car. I already plan to grind away some non-critical front support areas to increase flow on my heat exchangers. Speaking of which, are you still running your custom FMIC? I have found that my oil and water temps are substantially lower than stock by running my Mountune FMIC! I simply don't have a serious heat problem even running on a track well over 100 deg F! WSIR is miserable this time of year, and while I'm sorting out some suspension and driving issues, the car is quite happy running hard. I'm switching to water/WaterWetter and hope that it's all I really need.

    I'd love to see your thoughts, parts, and pictures for your brake ducting. I've already decided to remove the water reservoir and associated hardware. Feel free to PM or send to my email.

    My front camber is about where I need it. I'm running -4 and using R compound tires that clear just fine (I still run Spec Miata sizes for frugality).

    I don't think I need an undertray, but would love a splitter and wing.
  13. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    Quick thoughts on the battery...

    I'm worried about the "packaging" of relocating the battery and dealing with the cables. I was thinking I'd just keep it where it is and go with a substantially smaller Lithium Ion battery. Those can get expensive in a hurry!
  14. Max Archer

    Max Archer Member

    Not too surprised at the A/C weight, that stuff is pretty light these days. We pulled a whole HVAC out of an E92 M3 recently and it was only like 60lb including heater core, lines, control panel and everything.
  15. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    I think the stock battery went about 29lbs I opted for a 15lb $95 dollar Deka ETX20L Shipped I could have done the 6 lbs Braille Battery B106 Lightweight Racing Battery. But I opted for the less costly route for starters and it had the correct terminal placement needed a Positive post in the right place..
  16. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    Right! I was looking at the crazy-expensive Braille battery! Are you happy with the Deka? I'll have to check it out.
  17. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    I just went to the site -- clever idea to make the most popular parts their own domain name! It takes out the confusion. I like that it's made here in the USA, and is an AGM! I just switched my Jeep over to an AGM. They handle vibrations better and love the super low discharge rate!

    This guy, right?
    RodMoe likes this.
  18. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    Thats the one :)
    I had to add a lil plywood shim under it to get the factory hold down to work. YMMV
  19. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member

    That's great, thank you. I sent you a related PM.

    I'm actually (slowly) going AGM on all of my vehicles. Next up is my TREG3 TDI, and it has a huge battery. I think my Wrangler battery is 45 pounds. I've heard that AGM outlasts traditional batteries 2x, but I don't have personal data to support that.
  20. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    Yupper got it :)
  21. McRib 1s Back

    McRib 1s Back Well-Known Member


    This stuff came in a few days ago, but I haven't had a chance to install it. I'm going to do a bunch of stuff at once.

    In addition to this ABS module and AC delete kit, I'm planning to install a Quaife differential, a new brake kit, and finalize the removal of a few random interior bits.

    There's pretty much no chance I'll get this done before the track days at WSIR Big Willow on 10/11 - 10/12.

    I'll update this as soon as a I can! :)
    iLiptiKal likes this.

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