Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Autocross' started by AlanBDahl, Mar 17, 2014.
Cool! I want one! And only $995!
Old school quick jacks are manually operated and only lift 1/2 or 1/4 of the car.
I was thinking about making one but their drawback is that they lift in an arc but don't have wheels so if your car isn't designed with a big flat lifting point, you can drop the car if you pick it up too quickly.
The big one seems OK but you still need jack stands and it only lifts 2', too compromised in my opinion.
reddog99--I put yellow circles at the points I think you're describing. How close am I?
Those are the exact points I was referring to.
I had this same question and found that it was easiest on the front to use the bolt with the floor jack and put the stand at the recommended jacking point.
For wheel changes at autoX I use the front yellow bolt with a rubber pad. I can do both wheels on the same side at once.
I get that popping sounds from the rear wheels. I put my ebrake on and put a block by the back wheels and the back wheels make that popping sound when lowering the car. Unless were doing it wrong somehow, please let me know so i can better improve it. Thanks
Buy these for your pinch weld pick up points. Pick up the FiST to the left of the jack stand point in front, and to the right of the jack stand point in the rear. Make sure you use jack stands which have a relief in the middle so you don't impact the pinch point weld when the car is lowered on the jack stands. Place the jack stands at the recommended pinch points.
I got my jack stands from Sears, my racing jacks from Harbor Freight (2 ton and 3 ton), and my magnetic pinch point weld supports from Amazon (About $40.00)
Sears jack stands that work. When I bought mine they were painted yellow.
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