Quick Shift

Discussion in 'FSWERKS' started by mcummings182, Nov 4, 2013.

  1. Sekred

    Sekred Active Member

    I have driven the vehicle a number of times now and there is a noticeable difference when you engage 6th gear. Now the change into 6th gear feels direct and fully home so I am happy with the out come. Just had to buy this kit now to use when ever I do a service.

    Crack Dye.png
     
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  3. wash

    wash Active Member

    The idea of minimizing the stress riser is a good one, you obviously know a bit about strength of materials.

    The reason I mentioned it is that probably 80% of the population couldn't tell you how an I-beam works.

    I'm really speaking to the 80% so that they will think a little before they break out the dremel.

    To you and me, the purpose of a rib is obvious, to them its just in the way. I repeat the obvious for their sake.

    I probably would have done something very similar if I had that problem but some people wouldn't understand the risk and get bent out of shape if their linkage got bent out of shape.

    Since I don't have a quick shift yet I'm going to wait and see even though I really want one.

    I hope your fix works!

    Lastly, do those dyes work on nylon? I've never had to check for cracks on plastic.
     
  4. Sekred

    Sekred Active Member

    Hi Wash,
    I doubt the dye works on nylon, just some friendly banter. I do have some failure analysis training but I don't get a phone call when a aircraft falls out of the Sky. I find the way load and cyclic fatigue affect components under stress very interesting, particularly engines when they break, and Turbo chargers for that matter.
    By the way, I like the EFR turbos, big $$$ though.
    Google Honeywell turbos, there make a turbo with a dual sided compressor that may interest you.
    Cheers,
    Sekred
     
  5. wash

    wash Active Member

    The idea of dual turbine impellers is interesting, I think Ford is using it on a diesel (as kind of a staged twin turbo setup I think) I have a hard time imagining that the piping issues don't spoil a lot of the theoretical advantage.

    To me the TiAl impeller seems to make more sense, its not reinventing the wheel, just making it lighter.

    Dual impellers in TiAl would be cool but probably best in the bigger applications like V8s.

    With only 4 cylinders I think the best I can do is the twin scroll 6258 EFR and as expensive as that is with the exhaust, piping and intercooler, its still cheaper than a Whipple twin screw for a 5.0.

    If I'm paying an extra $1,000 for the best, that's not horrible.

    Now I just have to find one. The local guy I want to buy through needs to work on his distributor I think.

    The model I want made their new price list and the Borg Warner guys at SEMA told me its coming soon so it shouldn't be vapor-ware like the 6255.
     
  6. TWDM

    TWDM Member

    This kit is horrible to install. It is physical impossible to install this without removing your battery.
     
  7. Sekred

    Sekred Active Member

    My car is Aussie spec RH drive, I only needed to remove the air filter housing. Must be a difference by the sound of the complaints about installation on the NA models.
     
  8. Firesail

    Firesail Active Member

    Got mine done without removing the battery.
     
  9. TWDM

    TWDM Member

    You have like 2 inches of room to work with and no 24mm wrench will fit in there.
     
  10. D1JL

    D1JL Well-Known Member

    I think I installed the first US kit.
    I did not remove the battery.
    I did use the two large wrenches to remove the original pin.
    With my arthritis the hard part I found was installing and tightening the allen bolt.
    I am also fortunate not to have any rubbing issues and it works perfect.


    Dave
     
  11. TWDM

    TWDM Member

    Did you guys have your cars in neutral when you installed it?

    I've tried countless times but there's no way to sneak 1 let alone 2 large wrenches into that tiny area to pull off the pin.
     
  12. D1JL

    D1JL Well-Known Member

    I honestly don't remember.
    As you may know, they say, "That memory is the second thing to go."

    I would just suggest that you put in any gear that allows you to get the job done.


    Dave
     
  13. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    I had it gear and not in gear while fighting this install .. Glad it went well for some but it feel the pain of the rest of those with pita installs. Think I took out battery box/Ecu as had the air intake tied up out of the way. Then about had to stand on my head to get the pin out . That is the easy part ... The Allen head install may have gone better if I had taken the reverse switch out too. Only to end up with a 6th gear interference as mentioned by others !!
     
  14. reddog99

    reddog99 Active Member

    I was able to use several adjustable type wrenches. They opened just enough to accept the 24mm size nut, but were shorter than a normal 24 mm wrench. And putting the shifter into 2 or 4 will give you a bit more room to swing the wrench. As for the Allen head, I didn't remove the whole switch, I just pulled off the connector.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2013
  15. spangenb

    spangenb Active Member

    I commented on another thread regarding this problem. In my case I decided it was less detrimental to bend the vertical shift lever toward the battery about 1/8" ... maybe a little more. Clearancing the nylon rod end seemed like a bad long-term answer to me. Glad Mountune is reworking the design.
     
  16. D1JL

    D1JL Well-Known Member

    Although I have had or felt no problems my plan is inspect this all this weekend.
    as spangenb says, bending the shift lever slightly may be the better answer.

    Dave
     
  17. Sekred

    Sekred Active Member

    As someone with a mechanical back ground, one of my first thoughts when I encounter a problem is, hit it with a hammer, tie it up with wire, or bend it, LOL. I decided not to bend it. This is not a support bracket or similar. Its a transmission shift lever. There is no way I would bend it. The cable I can replace. The modification can be reversed and that is one of the first things I consider when I change something.
    There, I've come out swinging. LOL
     
  18. RodMoe

    RodMoe Well-Known Member

    Only problem with taking it out is pressing the original lever ball back into the shift arm given the tight working space. I'm sure it could be done with hand tools but then you are stuck with a pretty paper weight .. Lol
     
    Sekred likes this.
  19. Sekred

    Sekred Active Member

    I wouldn't be converting it back to stock, I would simple bend the shift lever, replace the cable and drive off crying into the sunset (in 6th gear) never to heard off again, sniff :depressed:
     
    RodMoe likes this.
  20. reddog99

    reddog99 Active Member

    After reading here that simply bending the offending lever for clearance is the "solution", I have a suspicion that Mountune will just make their new part thinner. Heck, you could do it to a bad part yourself if you have access to a milling machine. I do, but I'm impatiently waiting for Mountunes official fix.
     
  21. reddog99

    reddog99 Active Member

    Well, I guess that I'm a quitter. I got fed up with waiting for Mountune, and re-installed the stock shifter part (the ball). It's been nearly a month since Mountune told me the new part would be only a "few" weeks. I had rationalized at first that I could drive my truck until the new part came in, but that decision has ended up costing me the price of the shift kit in increased gas costs for the truck.

    Removing the Mountune kit and putting it back to stock was a four hour operation. I made the job tougher on myself by using locltite during the original install, so unscrewing just that one little bolt took nearly two hours by itself. :bucktooth:

    Most of the time re-installing the stock ball was spent in trying to find a way of not damaging the parts during the process. For anyone who has had this apart, you know that the ball is a press fit into it's hole and can't be just hammered in. It's way too tight for that. I got it part-way in with a C-clamp, but once the going got tough, the clamp kept slipping off. I finally found that I had a Vise-grip with jaws that open enough to be able to press the ball in a little bit at a time. You must be careful to protect the top of the ball though, or it will become gouged by the jaws.

    It feels good to be back on the road again! :happy:
     

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