RE-DRILL to run Enkei 16x8 RPF1, street/track, many 15's also available

Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Wheel and Tire Upgrades' started by raamaudio, Apr 2, 2014.

  1. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I buy fresh race team take offs, have for many years, up to BIG Vette sizes, I get some of the best because of buying so many and I am only out having fun, not going after a championship, etc...just HPDE and TT and sometimes a bit of solo. The big tires cost more to ship but other than that I pay the same whatever size I get.

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  3. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I just sent a request out to a great manf a couple of hours ago about a custom run of wheels for us ST owners. I am not in the business to sell wheels, just looking into what we can get since the market has so few good wheels at good prices.
  4. Tim McCarthy

    Tim McCarthy Member

    I'm late to the party, but if you sent a request to Enkei, I highly doubt they'll listen. I had contacted a company in Michigan who did a group buy for the RPF1 for the FoST guys and they attempted to get enkei to make the wheel in 4x108 and got shut down pretty quick.

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
  5. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I know somebody high up at Enkei but did not ask, I know better, it would have to be a big batch for one just for them to consider it.


    I just dropped the hubs off at the machine shop, I will have them back in a few days, they have a priority job on some plasma engines to do first.


    We are looking into a 5x114.3 setup as well but the stock hubs do not have a big enough flange and it is a close call to fit one wide enough into the stock brake hubs. We could do a custom milled hub but there is a great deal of machine work though we could alter the offset a bit to more available sizes.

    I am going to look into finding hubs off another car that are close enough to just need some machining done, it would be far less costly, chances of finding the right ones are not high so any help I can get would be greatly appreciated.

    1) If I could get the drawings with specs, any FWD, 5x114.3, I could go by that, it would help to have them for the Fist as well.

    2) Any scrap or not needed hubs anybody has laying around send them to me.

    3) Anything else you can think of:)

    If we could do an affordable 5x114.3 there are many many wheels available but not so many in 15x8, etc.....
  6. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Hubs and rotors are now dual drilled to 4x100 and 4x108mm:) I will install them tomorrow but have to make a final decision and order in some wheels in 4x100.

    Tim McCarthy likes this.
  7. wash

    wash Active Member

    Any pictures?
  8. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I will take some today while putting the parts back together and post them up and then when I get some wheels will do the same:)
  9. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Ordered a set of wheels and tires today, should have them on Wednesday.

    Inclement weather tires/wheels for cold, rain, if get stuck out in the snow which I have a great deal of experience in not using snow tires at all, it is about being smooth and momentum.

    205/45/17 Michelin A/S 3 Y rated "all season" (was considering Conti DWS but these will be far more useful if I go to an event and have bad weather)
    17x7 Konig Feather, 4x100, +40, very reasonable cost (I chose silver and might spray them gunmetal, etc)
    Tires, 21lbs
    Wheels, 16.8 lbs
    Total, 37.8 lbs

    I wanted to run 16x7, the tires just are not made in the size I wanted to use. The DWS was but not the Michelin, I could of saved 4 more lbs per corner!


    Track/autocross/street in good weather.

    225/45/15 BFG Rivals, not so great in standing water or the cold, why getting the Michelin setup above, can switch to DOT race tires easily)
    15x9, Avanti Storm, 4x100, +35 (I wanted to get the 6UL but not available until fall, this has the largest inside diameter so easier to fit the11.7" BBK)
    Tires, 20 lbs
    Wheels, 12.2 lbs
    Total, 32.2 lbs!

    15x9, +35 is going to take some effort to make them work but I have measured, drawn out, calculated, looked over where I can roll the fenders, might have to cut, paste and weld the inner rears......put on a steering limiter for track events, etc...but pretty sure I can do it:) GRM did a test and found they were much faster on a 9" wide wheel than an 8" and they use a 205 on 8" wide wheels for best results on that size wheel. I want more rubber, I want all I can get and the widest stance to help deal with a tall and narrow car. I will deal with torque steer, scrub, etc, the best I can with castor, camber, toe, roll center, etc, I have a digital caster/camber gauge, toe plates, strings, scales......and I will keep my eye out for what others have done and proven or dis proven;)

    And I will gladly share all I learn, of course!

  10. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I have a set of Hoosier R6 in 225/45/15 that are a couple of years old though barely used, might not be serviceable on track but great for test fitting, fender rolling, etc....and a bit wider than all other 15's I know of so any 225/15 will fit if I make the Hoosiers fit.
  11. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    DONE! I just need to get the wheels and tires on when they get here on Wednesday:)

    I meant to take many more pictures but I get working and forget to grab the camera but anybody that has pulled of a front hub, etc, replaced a wheel bearing, etc...can do this.

    A competent shop, other than any re-drilling, should be able to do this in a couple of hours it would seem. If you source the parts and have any re-drilling done before the job was started it would go quite quickly, I had to wait for the machine shop to finish some priority work first.

    You would use nearly the exact methods to simply replace the 4 matching front and rear hubs if replacing with new Mazda 2 units which reportedly fit perfect so do not need re-drilled. My local machine shop estimated $150 to drill all four hubs and four rotors but it was much more work than they thought it would be. It was $240 but to re-drill, and well done, 8 parts for that price, still a great value as new hubs are at least $80 each so it would cost $320 and still pay to have rotors drilled. For those getting a BBK, if you cannot order the aluminum rotor hats drilled for 4x100 or you can have them done locally for a one time cost. Rear rotors seldom need changed even on tracked cars and there is a larger rear rotor in the works that will be available in 4x100 or 4x108.

    The only special tools are:
    -C clamp bearing press which is cheap from Harbor Freight(I have an expensive one but bought it before you could find a decent one for cheap, I did use my shop press but a C clamp would work fine as that is all I had for years and possibly a big socket or two if the kit does not have the right diameter parts.
    -32mm socket
    -55 Torx socket

    1) Front hub removal,
    -Remove axle nut with 32mm socket, it will take a long breaker bar or good airgun, mine took it right off set at 120PSI though I could of had it on 150
    -Back off tie rod nut, 18mm, and use a pickle fork if you have the right one, if not just hit the nut with a heavy hammer.
    -Unbolt and remove ABS sensor, 8mm
    -Unbolt and remove brake caliper, 16mm, and slide off rotor, have a piece of wire handy to hang it from, do not hang from brake hose.
    -Unbolt strut from knuckle, 18mm socket, I believe it was 15mm bolts.
    -Remove lower ball joint bolt and nut, 13 and 15mm I believe
    -Use a small crow bar to pry the knuckle up off the ball joint shaft.
    -Remove knuckle, I used a soft face dead blow hammer to get it to come loose.
    -Use C clamp press to remove the studs.
    Optional, use bearing puller to remove bearing race to prevent damage or to reuse if buying Mazda 2 hubs
    -Use C clamp to press hubs out of knuckles.



    2) Rear hub removal
    -Axle nut, 32mm socket and 55 torx so need two breaker bars or one and impact gun, best to at least loosen them on the car and that only takes the socket.
    -Unbolt the ABS sensor, 8mm
    -Unbolt caliper, it will be supported by the parking brake cable, no need to wire it up, slide off rotor.
    -Unbolt the hub carrier(not sure the name) from the rear axle, four 13mm bolts, reach through the spring with an extension to get to them.
    -Remove rear axle from hub/carrier with 32mm socket and 55 torx
    -Use C clamp press to remove hub from carrier
    -Use C clamp press to remove studs.

    3) Press studs into bored hubs or Mazda 2 hubs


    4) Install hubs in carriers using C clamp or bench press

    5) Install hubs onto car in reverse order as removed



    6) Torq axle nuts to spec using tools from above, having somebody firmly applying the brakes makes this much easier.


    Rear installed, light behind the upper right hole to show you can see right through it, both hub and rotors have been reduced in weight just a bit:)


    Install the 4x100 wheels and tires and torque them to spec, enjoy:)
  12. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Stud upgrade, do it while everything is apart as the 4x100 will not allow the studs to be replaced unless you press the hubs out of the knuckle, rear carrier, etc.
  13. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Since re-drilling can be a waiting game go in with a buddy, do a group effort, etc, buy the new hubs and a set of rotors, get the work done on them as needed, swap your parts, get your stock parts reworked, sell, trade, pass on to the next member, etc.......
  14. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    If you are regularly going to track your car either swap to a BBK and/or rear rotor swap and have spare rotors made ahead of time, ordered in, etc.....
  15. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    This mod opens up a whole new world of quality, low cost, good wheels for street and track.
  16. Tim McCarthy

    Tim McCarthy Member

    How much did all this run you?

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
  17. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    $240 using stock parts re-drilled.

    I do have a pretty complete shop to work in so only paid for the machine shop work and had all the tools, air gun, bench press, etc but could of done it with the mentioned hand tools.
  18. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Next step after getting the street wheels and tires is getting some 15x9, 12.2 lb rotary formed, $141 each, track wheels, mounting up the 225x45/15 Hoosier R6 tires(8.8" wide tread) and start rolling the fenders:)

    There are 15x9, 15 lbs wheels for as low as $109 and good wheels as well but I want super light and rotary formed wheels.
  19. quiznos

    quiznos Member

    If you could video your fender work I'd appreciate it. Eventually I'd like to throw some rally tires on and will need some more room.

    Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
  20. wash

    wash Active Member

    Can you comment on the front and rear hubs being the same?

    If they are and the Mazda 2 front hub matches the Fiesta front, then we know the easy way for the hubs.

    I wish there was some comprehensive list of brake rotor dimensions so I could figure out if there is an easy way for the rotors.

    If you re-drill the hubs, you could bolt up stock rotors and then use drill bushings to transfer the new hole pattern, then open them up to the desired size on a drill press. If you have the tools and time that would be cheaper than paying the machinist...
  21. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I work by myself so a bit hard to do a video, I have a hard enough time remembering to take pictures but I will see if my wife can help a bit, she might like it actually as she very much likes the way I mod cars:)

    The front and rear hubs and bearings are exactly the same, just need to make sure the Mazda 2 hubs are correct.

    I have looked for rotor specs to match some up but no luck but the BBK company is working on a low cost larger rear rotor upgrade so he will have that available and it would be easy to dual drill them for both bolt patterns,

    Great idea! Since rotors are hub centric the holes do not need to be milled precisely, take a hub without studs, put it in place, mark the holes, drill on a drill press, done and free! Then make a pattern for when you need new rotors. I will I had thought of this, would of saved me some money:)

    If the Mazda 2 hubs are the same then just need to buy them, take the bearing races off the stock hubs unless you can find just new races, it was not hard with just a two arm puller and pressed back on using a press but it can be done with a C clamp press as well. Leave out the studs, mark and drill the rotors, put it all together.....done!

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