RE-DRILL to run Enkei 16x8 RPF1, street/track, many 15's also available

Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Wheel and Tire Upgrades' started by raamaudio, Apr 2, 2014.

  1. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    If you are decently mechanically inclined this is not a hard job at all, especially if you have a shop press or C clamp already, do it!

    If you do not have a press the $199 HF one is all I have and have used it for many things, does a fine job, there is a $129 12 ton that would do it as well.

    Their $72 ball joint press will work as well or they have a 6 ton table top press that might work.
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  3. wash

    wash Active Member

    Yeah, that's an old trick.

    One time, the day before race day I received a sprocket that was ordered with the wrong bolt pattern for our hub but our old sprocket was drilled with both patterns. So as everyone else freaked out, I bolted the two sprockets together and used the old one as a drill guide. Everything bolted up, the sprocket ran true and everyone was pretty happy with that.

    I know I'm not the first one to do something like that but I figured it out independently at 19, under pressure, etc. It was a good moment.
  4. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Very cool indeed:)
  5. wash

    wash Active Member

    I was looking up wheel bearings and on, the Fiesta bearing is 96700-07062231 and the Mazda 2 bearing is 96710-07062231, off by only one digit and $0.07.

    Without having them in my hand with a micrometer to check, that really sounds like they are identical.

    That makes me think if the Mazda 2 and Fiesta axle splines are the same, the Mazda 2 hubs should be virtually identical beside the lug pattern.

    I wish I could just buy all this stuff.
    Tim McCarthy likes this.
  6. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I took a look and the pictures showed a dramatically different looking bearing for the Mazda 2 but it was only for 2013, not 2014.....that I could find. They looked more like a needle bearing and the ST is a ball bearing design.

    I could not tell from the pictures if the race that presses onto the hubs is included, it should be and probably is.

    If you check it out again would you please post a link to the actual part you found, please?


    I do not recall where I found the listing but the hubs lowest price was around $80 or so, it would be great to find a lower price for those considering the mod as long as they are good quality.
  7. wash

    wash Active Member

    I was looking at 2011 parts.

    From what I've been told, the front hub application is 2011-2014 Fiesta front and 2014 ST rear.

    Assuming the knuckle bore hasn't changed, a 2011 bearing should fit 2014 parts (at least on the front).

    When I looked at for 2011 Fiesta and Mazda 2 front wheel bearings, those part numbers came up and the pictures were the same.

    Any way, I still haven't found Mazda 2 hubs cheap so I'll probably re-drill since I have access to milling machines and Fiesta hubs are dirt cheap.

    I just saw that ST knuckles are dirt cheap too, I might build up everything from the a-arms to the strut tops, good for spares and mocking up a BBK.
  8. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I posted this somewhere but to make sure you see it as it might save you some time and money:)

    I had already spoken to two vendors on the site about this and they did not seem to be interested in developing a kit for 15" race wheels so I was working on my own but in a wider rotor and when talking to Wilwood they recommended I call another brake company.

    Not sure I should mention the name as not a sponsor on here and they have made made up custom stuff for me in the past and they liked my idea of a BBK to fit under 15" race wheels so already started on it. It will be real easy as they already make an 11.75" kit for the Miata and Mini and the caliper they use, rotors, very affordable and reliable with a huge race history behind them. The kit will be around $750 to $800 initial estimate including one set of street pads but can option race pads, SS lines, two piece rotors, brackets, bolts, etc......

    Replacement rotors are only $40! If there is any heat issues with the straight vain rotors the GT series with curve vains will help a huge amount as well as brake ducts but he thinks we should be fine with the $40 rotors:) The GT are more like $100 each which is still reasonable.

    I was working on the plan to use an 11.75x1.25 rotor but he said just not needed, would cost considerably more, higher consumable cost, more weight, etc....I was also looking at a FSL caliper with .80 pads for lower pad cost but thick pads can lead to other issues, kick back, putting in shims for that, etc....his kit would be .60 pads so thicker than some calipers use but not so thick to have pad issues.

    We talked about rear brakes and as I know most really do not need upgraded or at least not much of an upgrade unless a very hard core race car. He is going to produce a larger single piece rotor, caliper relocation kit, should cost around $250 complete.

    Lots of other brake options, sky is the limit and I have had big bucks brakes, many brands, lower cost, etc and always had great service from Wilwood brakes.


    Since you have access to milling machines I would have to recommend drilling your own, in reality they do not even have to be perfect but should be very close of course, the hubs carry the load but more than a very slight misalignment of the studs could put undo stress on them.

    Rotors, the holes can be a bit over sized and should be as stock rotors are, probably for expansion, contraction, ease of replacement, etc.


    When I started this project the business side of me and the helping others side, the way I do things both sides are in harmony as I love to offer things to help others and at a very fair price, considered setting up a service where I could ship complete knuckles, carriers, etc, ready to bolt on with a trade in program for stock parts. BUT, I am retired and have a ton of projects to finish and a life on the road to go attend to as soon as possible so I will gladly share all I learn and help others the best I can and if any vendor wants to offer this, which I think somebody should as it is an easy process in most ways, I will help them with anything I can and not for a fee unless it got very involved which I cannot imagine it could be.
  9. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I have tended to run on and on about this car on many threads so if I get repetitive I apologize, I am more excited by this car than anything I have built in many years, including full a full race Vette.

    I started this thread with the intention of running 16x8 RPF1 wheels, street set and track set but tires is the main issue and brakes another, those wheels are the best 16x8 available, I have ran many sets on different cars, used to be semi sponsored by them in fact, never one issue with them. But, they do not have a wide 15 or 17 and those sizes ended up being best for my needs. Also the inside diameter is more like a 15" wheel on the 16's.

    I am getting good quality wheels for much less money now, the 17x7(I really wanted wider wheels and tires but staying narrower is best for inclement weather) for a bit over $100 per wheel and the 15x9(going to be interesting as it might be nearly impossible to make it work but I love the challenge) for around $140 a wheel and roll formed......not my favorite style but not bad.....

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