SCCA Autocross setup thread

Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Autocross' started by AlanBDahl, Oct 21, 2013.

  1. Mightymango

    Mightymango Active Member

    No go from my sources on getting my hands on some loaner shocks.
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  3. Couldahadav8

    Couldahadav8 Active Member

    I think I am going to buy a couple cheap replacements and see if they fit.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Cligedy

    Cligedy Active Member

    Where are you seeing that the double adjustable inserts need special fabrication? The only instructions I can find don't make it seem too difficult with common hand tools.
  5. CrookedRacer

    CrookedRacer Active Member

    I'm talking about the fronts. I haven't even investigated the rears yet, but replacing those will likely be quite easy with common hand tools.

    The single adjustable inserts have just one adjustment: a little knob adjustment at the tippy-top of the shaft (you'll see/adjust it in the center of the shock mount when you lift the hood). Heh heh - he said "shaft". When you cut up your stock mounts and insert the koni insert into your stock strut tube, it will be fastened into the strut using a bolt at the bottom through a concentric hole you'll drill in the end of the stock strut's end-cap there. Like this video:

    The double adjustable inserts are adjusted at the top for compression, and at the bottom for rebound. Instead of a threaded hole for fastening, there's a keyed adjustment knob (like a flat screw head) there. So when you cut up your stock strut tube and insert the koni insert into your stock strut tube, you'll still need a good-sized concentric hole in the end of the stock strut so you can access and adjust the rebound knob. But you can't use that hole for fastening the insert, because that's exactly where the second adjustment is.

    What makes it more difficult is that now you need some way of holding that insert into the strut - to enable it to damp your rebound. So you need some way of closing the top of the strut over your insert so it's "capped" at both ends to hold it still.

    The Focus ST guy ( did it by cutting off the bottom (without disturbing the top cap), taking out the guts from the bottom of the tube, and welding on a threaded bottom cap. Either way would work, I guess, but I think I'd rather have the strength of the original cap at the bottom to take the full compression-damping load.

    If you can forward your instructions, that would be swell... Maybe I'm making this harder than it needs to be.
  6. Cligedy

    Cligedy Active Member

    I can only find one set of instructions for installing the inserts, and they don't specify whether it is for the single or double adjustable inserts. It does specify cutting the top of the strut body instead of the bottom, and doesn't require a fabricated cap.
  7. CrookedRacer

    CrookedRacer Active Member

    Thanks! Yes, these are instructions for single-adjustables.

    Double-adjustables look like this on the bottom:

    Obviously you can't bolt these in from the bottom. So some other way to hold it into the stock strut tube will be required.
    Some kind of cap extension piece.
  8. jasyatz

    jasyatz Member

    I know for a fact the upper strut bearings for the Fiesta are exactly the same as the Mazda2. I believe the issue is in the lower spring orientation. The Mazda spring I believe is more tightly wound than the Fiesta on the last coil. I have a set of stock Mazda2 springs/shocks and hats assembled if anyone wants to compare them to the ST ones. I can also disassemble them if you just want springs or struts. Or if you are in/near Central Jersey, you can always stop by for a test fit. As long as you send them back when you are done fitting and comparing,(these are my winter setup), they are yours to keep until October for shipping back and forth.
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  9. Joshesh

    Joshesh New Member

    jasyatz - can you post some pics of the stock Mazda 2 struts and springs?

    I will post the pics I just shot of the front STR Koni's (supposedly only fits non-ST fiesta and Mazda 2). It looks like they will fit, only need a small bracket added for some sensor (located on the opposite side of the swaybar endlink).
  10. wash

    wash Active Member

    Is that bracket for a sensor or the mass damper?

    We probably don't need a mass damper if we go for light wheels and better damping struts.
  11. Joshesh

    Joshesh New Member

    You know what, I think you are right. It is a mass damper. I wasn't sure what it was, it was heavy and without any wires. I opened it up and saw some rubber material holding some heavy metal piece in the middle.

    So I guess I don't need any brackets. Extra cool! Only difference besides that mass damper bracket is that the Koni STR is probably 10-15mm taller than the stock strut fully extended. I believe that will just make the shock run slightly lower in its stroke than normal, and this shouldn't hurt anything.


    Just for fun, last weekend with PCA in alameda, ca. Got up on 2 wheels, stock suspension - only front wheels/tires are modified in this pic:
    Mightymango and Cligedy like this.
  12. CrookedRacer

    CrookedRacer Active Member

    You might not be there yet, but - Is there any difference in height when fully compressed? Measure from the shoulder of the shaft where it steps down to the threaded post, if there's any difference in the length of threads.

    Thanks for posting!
  13. Mightymango

    Mightymango Active Member

    Josh, have you run it with those Koni struts yet? What did you get them out of ?
  14. wash

    wash Active Member

    I'm thinking the Steeda adjustable anti-sway bar end links might be a good tweak to offset the weight of the driver.

    Is that legal in the stock class?

    I think it might be helpful even on a coil-over car.
  15. Mightymango

    Mightymango Active Member


    A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting
    hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The
    use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented
    as a bearing.
    B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other
    purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.
    C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate
    anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the
    drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members
    which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted

    Looks like you can change the end links.
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2014
  16. Cligedy

    Cligedy Active Member

    3.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted.

    There is no rear bar to begin with, so I think you can use whatever mounting hardware you'd like.
  17. Joshesh

    Joshesh New Member

    I have not run any events with the koni struts yet. And I only have the rear installed right now. I really want to try it out with the koni rears only then install the fronts after. Des is going to try my car out tomorrow so we will see if he likes how it handles currently.

    These are koni str made for base model fiesta and Mazda 2.
  18. wash

    wash Active Member

    The Steeda end links are for the front anti-sway bar. They just allow you to pre-load it which I'm thinking might help compensate for not quite perfect cross weights.

    The back might like pre-load also but I don't think the effect would be as great.
  19. conevadr

    conevadr New Member

    Was it ever determined if the Eibach rear bar is Street category legal? I just got mine from TireRack, and installed it. It is different from any other rear sway bar that I have seen in that it doesn't actually attach to the body, only to the suspension below the shocks.

    George M
  20. Mightymango

    Mightymango Active Member

    I have been told it was legal with the type of suspension we have.
  21. Couldahadav8

    Couldahadav8 Active Member

    I have some adjustable end links it am going to try on the front.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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