No. But if you do happen to try this at home... Currently, the only rattles at the moment are in the rears where the vw shock bracket nut hits the body. I'm going to drill that out this week to make it quiet. The thing I'm most afraid of is the bottoms of the inserts wobbling around. They seat in a sort of hemispherical shape in the bottom and I have them cranked down really hard. They might have gotten a bit loose without loc-tite, but now that I have loc-tite on the Koni nut threads, I think they'll stay put. I used a monkey wrench to tighten them with authority. My other suggestion is to not drive the car until after a few hours (or overnight) to give the loc-tite a chance to harden. The solution to the wobble might be a ring at the bottom. One that's just smaller than the ID of the tube, and just larger than the koni's OD at the bottom, and about 1/4" tall. Nothing to add height, just a concentric spacer to keep the Koni in line. If I could make one, I would. Maybe I'll be forced to. Here's a list of tools you'll want to have before attempting this: 13mm ratcheting wrench for the three tower nuts 10mm ratcheting wrench (preferably with a bending head) for the brake line and the brake cylinder fill 15mm open-end wrench and a 5mm hex/allen key for the sway bar link 18mm ratchet socket / 15mm socket to remove the knuckle flat head screwdriver to remove the brake sensor wire 22mm socket deep wall (not impact - won't fit in the cup) for the main and jam nuts provided by Koni Impact wrench Spring compressors ($12.99 at Harbor Freight, currently) + 7/8 socket to operate them with the impact wrench LocTite (I used "red" available in the glue aisle at Home Depot) And here's an excellent video to give you some confidence before you begin: The brake sensor wire was WAY harder to remove than the video might lead you to believe. But seriously, I wish I had gone out and bought more tools from the start. Do NOT try this with an adjustable crescent wrench. That's all I'm tryin' ta say.