upgraded wheel studs?

Discussion in 'Fiesta ST Chassis Upgrades' started by wash, Mar 15, 2014.

  1. wash

    wash Active Member

    I was looking around and sbox engineering has a set of racing wheel studs.

    The description is 0.509" knurl and 3.25" length.

    I tried to find a Fiesta stud drawing from Doorman but couldn't find one.

    Looking at the thread pitch, knurl diameter and length, it seems like sbox is selling Moroso late model Corvette/Camaro wheel studs.

    Even buying Moroso brand from Jegs is expensive but looking up the late model Corvette/Camaro application, I have found ARP 100-7708 (I think) for less than half the cost. That's a 2.75" stud which I hope is long enough, I dislike having too much extra length.

    I'm hoping to confirm our knurl diameter and stud length, then I'll try a set.

    I don't know if these fit, but they might and if anyone is looking for an upgrade, this is probably a good place to start.
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2014
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  3. wash

    wash Active Member

    I just ordered a Fiesta wheel stud so I'll be able to compare it with the ARP specs or find another suitable match.
  4. wash

    wash Active Member

    I found an interesting option which might have almost everything I'm looking for.

    Quality manufacture, good length, bullet tip so they don't cross thread and reasonable price.

    I'm contacting the manufacturer to confirm the quality part.

    The only drawback: black oxide instead of cadmium plating. Around here its dry enough and I swap wheels often enough that its probably not an issue but in a humid or rainy place it might get rusty on the exposed section.
  5. D1JL

    D1JL Well-Known Member

    I can get the Cad plating.
    Please let us know what you find.

  6. wash

    wash Active Member

    I'm going to go by the dealership tomorrow morning to see if my stock stud came in, then I'll measure and see if the part I'm looking at is appropriate and hopefully place an order.

    Then phase two will begin...
  7. D1JL

    D1JL Well-Known Member

    If I recall correctly, we can talk this weekend.

  8. wash

    wash Active Member

    Yeah, I can bring the stock stud if the dealer has it before I leave for SLC.
  9. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I am 50 miles NW of SLC, for now, going full time with a modded Fist in the back of the trailer by fall, just started my project so nothing much to see yet but if going to be in SLC for awhile you are welcome to visit, I do not go to the city much.

    Studs, most likely we can safely run with just screw in studs from the front, since I am going to get my hubs and rotors re-bored I could just have them done in whatever thread pitch I want to use. I will measure the thickness of some of the hubs I have here I have used front screw in studs on, I have some studs as well but they are far longer than I will ever need on the Fist so have to get shorter ones.

    If you know the thread pitch where the stock studs mount to the hubs that would help a great deal!

    I will take a look as well.

    I have lots of light lug nuts that fit the pitch of the stud threads the nuts go onto already.

  10. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    The thread pitch on the lug nuts is 12x1.5mm, it would seem the other end would be metric as well so make sure!

    My car is finally on my lift and I am pulling one front and one rear rotors and hubs to take to my local machine shop and get a quote on re-drilling them to 4x100, I will see if I can get a stud out before I take them over.

    I am 50 miles NW of SLC so if you are around for awhile maybe we can hook up:)

  11. wash

    wash Active Member

    IMG_20140404_094623.jpg The Fiesta uses a press in stud. I don't think its a particularly good idea to change to screw in.

    Here is a photo of a stock wheel stud next to an ARP 7708 stud which should fit:
  12. wash

    wash Active Member

    The ARP is a 2.75" stud and stock seems to be about 2".

    On stock wheels my front studs seem about 3/16" short of filling my spline drive Gorilla lug nuts.

    That means 2.75 will stick out a lot, more than I like actually.

    My other option is 2.5" with a bullet nose, it might have 1/2" less thread which seems about perfect unless you get wheels with shallow drilled lug taper seats.
  13. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Oops, for some reason I was thinking BMW where they used bolts and we used screw in studs.

    I would go for the shorter bullet nose studs in your case as long as they full seat in the threads, actually you can loose a few threads with no worries most of the time.

    I use the short Gorilla nuts, very light and can see they are fully threaded.

    I also have some aluminum nuts but do not use them.
  14. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    It would be better if the length of the knurled area was longer to pass through the hub and brake rotors or hats if a BBK but probably not a major issue.

    If you do not have a press but have an impact wrench you can pull them into the hubs using washers and a steel lug nut.

    Make sure to drill the exact size hole if you decide to change the bolt pattern or have to make new holes.
  15. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    Since I am taking my hubs in to get re-drilled can you let me know the info on the shorter knurled studs please?

  16. wash

    wash Active Member

    Look up the Mazda 2 hubs first, buying a pair or actually four will probably be cheaper than redrilling Ford hubs.

    And that's a little knowledge there, it seems the Fiesta ST uses four identical hubs which should be the same part as the standard Fiesta front hub which would seem to suggest that Mazda 2 front hubs should bolt up at all four corners.

    It will be much nicer to buy four hubs, press in good studs and then just swap instead of: jack up your car, take off the hubs, press out the studs, send them out for machining, press in new studs and reinstall.
  17. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    I ended up taking just a front and rear and still installed in the front knuckle and rear carrier as they have to be pressed out. I wanted to see if he could do it without pressing them but does not look like it, at least that shop does not want to.

    I have a press and am going to need more info on any specific issues pressing them out so I do not damage them.

    Not going to be a simple operation as I had hoped but not insurmountable and not expensive when considering how many more good wheels are available for 4x100.

    I was quoted $25-30 per hub for re-drilling them, far less expensive than new hubs.

    Also quoted the same for drilling the rotors.

    Ends up this is an old school shop, no CNC machine, so I am going to check other shops as I want to see what kind of price I can get due to needing spares and or helping others get this done. Once a CNC machine is programed it is pretty easy to do more later on.

    If the Mazda 2 hubs are indeed the same as all four hubs on the ST that would help as others could just buy them and have them pressed in then get the rotors re-drilled.

    I am deciding on the wheel sizes I want to use and might end up making my own BBK, it would make rotor swap a bit easier as not having to re-drill all the time.

    There could also be off the shelf stock type rotors that fit one or both ends of the car, if so then higher grade, Cyro treated, may be available for a decent price.
  18. wash

    wash Active Member

    Seriously price out Mazda 2 hubs, I priced Fiesta ST hubs and they are dirt cheap.

    I was just looking at the R2 kit and their five lug hubs have five radial ribs that thicken the area where the stud presses in. If the four lug hub is similar, the new holes would land in a thin spot and compromise the strength of the hub.
  19. wash

    wash Active Member

    Also, CNC is not the end all of machining, re-drilling hubs is something I would do with a DRO equipped manual mill and a test indicator unless I was setting up to do dozens of hubs in one production run.
  20. raamaudio

    raamaudio Active Member

    The stock hubs have a flat rear surface so re-drilling them would put the holes in the same thickness area as the stock holes.

    I have never had the need to have much machining done other than surfacing manifolds, flywheels, etc.....I did not know CNC was going to be less than optimal. DRO, I will check to see if the shop I went to has the system, if not I will find another shop.


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